what I could sense like a charge in the air: I was leaving Hungary and entering Croatian space. I felt relief—something of what a Hispanic or Korean person must feel in the parts of South Central Los Angeles where they are surrounded by their own, something of what South African blacks must have felt after Apartheid was dismantled. In what used to be Yugoslavia one was almost expected to apologize for being a Croat. Now I was free to be who I am. Yet the longer I was in the country, the more hemmed in